Though a relatively small island, Ireland has had a large impact on the rest of the world — from the literate monks who pulled Europe out of the "Dark Ages" to today's high tech "Silicon Bog" economy. Historical currents still run deep, as travelers wander through ancient moss-covered forts crouching in lush valleys and catch their breath on castle turrets crowning windswept hilltops. Charming fishing villages dot the coast near wave-battered cliffs. And there really are forty shades of green. less